France Diary: May 3 to May 22, 2023

WEEK 1 | WEEK 2 | WEEK 3

Week 2

With our suitcases covered in plastic bags from our small kitchen, and umbrellas in the other hand, we headed on foot for the train station, just a few blocks away. We got to the Gare de Lyon station in good time, about five minutes before the announcement of which track we were to leave on, which also appeared on a huge board that was posted in the station. This station is so large, it actually is comprised of two huge halls, with a total of 23 track platforms that move about 148 million passengers annually.

We were in Hall #1 heading south, and when our train number was given, we went to platform 19. The train was really long with over twenty cars, and of course, our First-Class car was at the far end at the head of the train. We climbed on and up to the upper level and settled in. Our seats had hooks for hanging coats, footrests that slid out, overhead racks, cushy seats that could recline with built-in lighting for reading. When the trays attached to the seats in front of us were closed, on the back there was a mirror, and when unlatched and down there was the option of two size trays; one smaller folded one for setting on small items and when unfolded a larger tray for eating on.

About halfway into our ride, we had our lunch. The train briefly stopped for three minutes in Avignon, and just twenty minutes after that we pulled into Aix-en-Provence. We got off the train and headed for the exit. We took an elevator up one floor with our bags, so as to avoid hauling them up the stairs, walked a bridge across the tracks and another elevator down on the other side. We exited out the front of the station and turned left for a short walk to the rental car building. We had pre-booked with Avis and were given a brand new golden/bronze compact car. The suitcases filled the trunk, our laptops and coats went in the back seat, the mirrors were adjusted, the navigation was set up, and our contact was texted to let her know when we were arriving.

Ten miles and about twenty minutes later, we followed the GPS through small narrow backstreets of Aix-en-Provence, to get as close to our Airbnb as possible. Our particular side street had metal bollards that blocked the street which only local residents can lower. After contacting our hostess to let her know we had arrived, she quickly arrived on her moped. She opened the front building door, led us upstairs to our apartment, gave us instructions on the keys, and we quickly moved our suitcases into the downstairs lobby. Then she got on her moped and Vere followed in the car to our parking space in an underground garage just four blocks away. While they were gone, I hauled up our laptops, jackets, and my suitcase and began to organize them. When he returned, he carried up his heavier suitcase.

There was no elevator in this Airbnb, so we had to walk up two flights of wide stairs, but then we had the entire third floor of the building. The apartment door opened to a very long room. Before us was a large dining table that sat eight with high-back hemp woven chairs. A beautiful marble stone fireplace was next to the dining table but was not operable. That end of the room opened up to the kitchen with a large full-size fridge, a wine cooler, drawers full of things for a full-on cooking spree, and a washer/dryer combo machine. A large set of windows opened up to the back of the kitchen which overlooked a tiny private overgrown yard with a large tree.

The huge, long room was divided into two by a tiered open bookshelf, and on the other side was the living room where there were two large couches, a large low square glass table and a long TV cabinet. Three tall sets of windows opened up across the space, which overlooked a corner of the Palais du Justice (the Judicial center and courthouse). Off the living room was the bedroom with a full-sized mattress bed. Standing closets were on either side of the bed, and another large window faced the small street where we arrived at, below. The bed faced the bathroom, which was a step down and only divided by long curtains like a stage. A private stall was for the toilet to one side and on the other was the bath/shower and a stand for amenities. Hanging from all windows were shimmery golden curtains that pooled on to the floor. It was a very large space that included a parking spot, both rare for the city. It pays to book many months ahead to get a good place.

We got our laptops, phone and camera chargers set, answered a few emails, and then rested. We needed to get to the local grocery store as the next day was a holiday and many things would be closed. The grocery was just half a block to the left from our front door and the bakery just past it, so really handy. But before loading up with groceries, we wanted to briefly check out the immediate neighborhood.

The street (and when I say street, they are all more like alleyways), opened up to a busy square with hundreds of tourists sitting and having drinks. We walked up and down and back and forth to get a feel for the area and looked at many menus which would tempt us for dinner. Then we went shopping. The grocers was three stories high, and naturally we had to walk upstairs to every level just to peer at the aisles to see what we might want. Then, loaded down, we went back to our new place.

Since it was already 7:00 p.m., we went right back out to a restaurant we had seen called Follia, which specialized in flavors of the south of France. It was in the old wood carder’s quarter. A carder was one who carded and combed the wool to clean it, before it got spun into wool thread. We sat outdoors in a plastic walled area. This was done to better define the separation of all the outdoor restaurants, and I suspect protect the diners from the often Mistral winds. We were the first ones in for dinner, as the French don’t normally dine until 8:00. But being Americans and hungry from our travels, we were ready to eat.

We began with a glass of sweet Muscat wine to open our palate. For dinner, Vere had the Ravioli with truffles and a combination of alfredo and marinara sauce, which came with slices of cured Spanish Serrano ham on the rim of the plate. I had the filet of sole rounded into balls and nestled around some rice with lobster sauce and vegetables. Both were delicious and we enjoyed the ambiance. Afterward we walked further around the area, but not for long, as we were full and tired, so we headed back to the apartment.